Nov 29, 2008

Custom Interior



I was able to clean up the install a little more. I found the right cap to screw over the calibration button. While I was at it, I took the idiot surround and sanded the back of it on a belt sander. It helped the idiot surround fit a little better.




I spent the day mounting my Lambda gauge in place of the stock (worthless) clock. It was a little tricky.

•First I took the stock idiot cluster apart.



•Took all the components of the clock out of the idiot cluster. I was careful not to break the circuit board or any other elements of the warning system. Here is the piece I took out. I ended up cutting the clock knob off with some tin snips.



•I then had to take a file to the white housing. The area where the clock used to be has to be smoothed out to allow the lambda LCD gauge to fit in the slot where the clock used to be. There are little nubs that needed to be filed off. I circled the nubs, and dotted the area that needs to be filed down. There are nubs behind the dotted area that also need to be smoothed out.



• Ran the LCD gauge and all wires for the LED and calibration button up through the dash. This is the LCD gauge that came with my LC-1 wideband controller. I've seen similar displays at Radio Shack. Here you can see the little LED that tells you if your sensor is warmed up, calibrated, etc. There is also a calibration button not pictured.

•Drilled two holes in the clear plastic lens so the LED and calibration button will mount on the outside of the lens. There is already one hole from the clock knob.
SIDE NOTE: I have a Series 4 cluster, but a Series 5 dash and idiot surround. I found a little trick that helped me out. If you turn the clear plastic lens upside down, and cut off the tabs for the tiny (useless) screws, the Series 5 surround fits the Series 4 cluster. So I drilled two holes on the opposite side from the original clock knob.



•Ran all LED and button wires through the cluster. Just make sure all the wires are run through the correct route before you connect everything.

•Crimped and heat shrink for
LED and button wires.

•Took the black panel (with all the warning symbols) and cut it right before the window for the clock. The LED gauge will take the place of this piece.



•Re-assemble carefully.


EDIT* July 6th, 2009



I touched up the install. I took a un-cut warning light lens and just put the digital AFR gauge behind the stock, clock lens. It looks a little cleaner, and more like a stock component.

Nov 28, 2008

Look At Those AITs!!

Look At Those AITs!!


Here is a 4th gear pull from about 3000 to 6000 RPMs. I have a 9psi wastegate spring, but you can see, in 4th, it gets up to about 12 psi. The car is tune for that range, so it isn't a big deal... The turbo is just letting me know it wants to be opened up some more!!

The outside temp was around 70*F. I am running 50/50 water/methanol. It's great to see the AIT drop under boost like that.


Nov 26, 2008

Videos As Promised

As Promised

video
Interior gauge shot


video
Muffled Tips in

video
No muffled tips, APexi N1 dual exhaust, 3.5" downpipe, 3.5" midpipe.


>
Muffled Tips in


No muffled tips, APexi N1 dual exhaust, 3.5" downpipe, 3.5" midpipe.

video
Listen foe the wastegate to open, the tails lights burst away pretty quick!


video
2nd Gear blast passed.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Upgrade

Now I Know

Fuel system is just about there. I went with the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure regulator and an running -6 fuel lines to the rails. I will be running -8 to the tank next, and then changing the fuel rails to run in parallel.

Now I will be able to tell if there is an issue with the fuel pressure at a glance... Finally. This could've saved me a lot of guess work earlier.

Nov 22, 2008

First NA, First Vert

First NA, First Vert


I went to look at this car and was told it had no wheels, and didn't run. I could tell there were some minor body issues just by the pictures... but it does look to be a photogenic car.


My buddy hooked me up with these saw-blade T2 rims before I left to check out the vert so I could at least roll it on the transport.




Overall, she looks alright, a little worse than the original sellers pictures let on.

A Closer Look

A Closer Look











This car is all there, but really needs some TLC to make her shine in person. I have a S5 front bumper and fenders at my disposal, but don't know where to start for the driver-side door. I really don't want to buy a T2 hood, but this one is pretty beat up. There is much hail damage and the vent shroud is broke.

Vert Details

Vert Details




Interior is so-so. It's all there except the radio, but there are a couple switches that need to be properly connected. The seats are not so good, but the rest looks like it just needs to be tightened and polished.



I've already noticed that there is no EGR fuse, and there is a huge vacuum leak after the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I think I can get her running after fixing those issues and flushing the fluids. The seller tried to start her for me but no dice. I heard both rotors pulsing alright as it cranked... then I noticed there was no EGR fuse so it wasn't gonna start.





Anyone know what exhaust this is??!?!? It looks pretty slick on an FC, but I've never seen it before.




The seller threw in this OBX header. Looks really nice, but I definitely don't want to go this route on the vert. She is just a cruiser.

*EDIT
I never got the car running and sold her.  But my friend bought the car and had it running in a week!  We went to a meet together and it looked really slick!

Nov 10, 2008

Fun Fuel Follies

Fun Fuel Follies

The 7 has been in the shop for a while with some issues we just couldn't seem to track down. The biggest problem has been fuel pressure. I busted one stock fuel pressure regulator so we began to track down the issues. We found fuel pressure to be 20 psi too high on start up, and more than that under load. After opening up the fuel tank to get to the pump, we noticed the tank was rusting out... AGAIN. This is the second tank to rust on me. Just to clarify, I live in Arizona... in the desert!!! I'm tired of replacing tanks so on the third tank, I grabbed some POR15 fuel tank sealer and sealed this bad boy up. No pics, but it was an easy process, but hard work. After that, I ordered a new fuel pump. The old Walbro was very load, and had varied fuel pressure.




TWICE PIPES




Now that I have the T04E, my 3.5" to 2.5" exhaust is useless. It's choking up my spool time and creating unnecessary back pressure. I changed to a 3.5" midpipe where the Magnaflo used to be, and then split to two 2.5" pipes with Apexi mufflers on the tips. It changes the whole stance of my car and makes it look much more aggressive. The only down side is, it's much louder too.




So What Series is This?





I know she's a bit dusty. She's been hanging out at the shop for too long. Anyway, I found the last pieces for my complete Series 5 interior swap. The rubber S5 radio surround really finishes off the dash. I've got to do a little work to get the idiot surround to fit with an S4 idiot cluster. But the rear hatch cover really sells the conversion!! I was so stoked to get this for $15!!!!!! It's in great shape, but needs just one stud on the passenger side to hold it in place.

Jun 19, 2008

Total Specs To Date

Total Specs To Date

ENGINE: Build by Turblown
New, Polydyn Coated Rotor-housings
Polydyn Coated Rotors
Polydyn Coated Oil Pump
New Polydyn Coated Journal Bearings
Balanced Assembly
Smooth, Street Ported Secondary Intake Ports
Large Exhaust Ports
Oil Flow Modification (oil feeds into both Rotors, Splits at Oil Filter)
Turblown Engine Stud Kit
FD Stationary Gear
New Mazda Seals/Engine Build Kit
Re-Surfaced Irons (ALL)
Turblown Relocated Oil Filter Pedastal, Large WIX Oil Filter, JAZ Catch-Can
Turblown Stainless Steel Oil Lines With AN Fittings (ALL)
Modified Oil Filler Neck (Shortened with No Bend, Hose Attached for Catch-Can)
ACT Street/Strip Clutch
Slightly Lighter Stock FlyWheel
Polyuethane Motor Mounts
Polyuethane N'ver Break Differential Mount
Throttle Body Modification
Higgi Throttle Body Elbow
Short, NA, Throttle Cable
New Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder
Stainless Steel MazdaTrix Clutch Line
New Brake Master Cylinder
Silicon Heater Core Hose
FD Alternator, With Dual Belt Pulley
New Water Pump
Deleted Oil Metering Pump
Intake Manifold Heat Shield
EGR & Coolant Passage Filled (From Intake to Motor)
Emissions Block Off Plates

TURBO: Kit by Turblown
Garrett T04E, .60/1.24 AR
Turblown Polydyn Coated Divided Tubular Manifold
Turblown 3.5" Downpipe
Tial 38mm WasteGate to Atmosphere
9lbs Spring
MagnaFlow Oval 24" Muffler in the Middle (3.5" to 2.5")
MagnaFlow Cylindrical 18" Muffler on the Tip
Custom Cold Air Intake
K&N 10" Cone Intake Filter
Old School HKS SQ Blow Off Valve


FUEL SYSTEM:
MoTeC M2R, Rotary Specific Engine Management System. Advanced Tuning Enabled
MoTeC Harness, Sensors, TPS, Injector Clips, 3Bar MAP, CAS, Intake Temp, Water Temp, etc.
Base Map, Ignition Map, Lambda Map by Paul Yaw
Walbro 225 L/H High Flow Pump
Bosch 1600cc Purple Tops, Deadband Timing by Paul Yaw
Stock 550cc High Impedence, Deadband Timing by Paul Yaw
Innovative LC-1 Lambda Controller and O2 Sensor, controlled by MoTeC

IGNITION:
MSD 6A
10mm MagnaCore Wires
Stock Spark Plugs, Replaced Every 3-5000 Miles

AUXILLARY INJECTION: Installed/Tuned by Turblown
Devil's Own 150psi Pump
1.5 Gallon Pump-Mount Tank (Mounted In Rear Driver Bin)
2 Stage Injection (one small Pre-compressor, 1 large Post-Compressor)
Check Valves on Both Jets
Cooling Mist Pressure Sensor
All Stainless Steel Lines
Controlled by MoTeC

SUSPENSION:
Rear Koni 2-Way Adjustable Coil-Overs, Dampening/Ride Height from FJBltd.com
110lbs Spring
Front Tokico Blue Factory Replacements
BBS Gold Meshies 16X8
Yokahama ES100 255\45 16
Drilled Front Brake Rotors
Manual Steering Rack

INTERIOR:
Black Series 5 Interior Conversion, 90% Complete
Cheap Plastic Dual Pod Pillar Cluster
52 mm AutoMeter UltraLite EGT Gauge
52mm AutoMeter UltraLight Water Temp Gauge
AutoMeter Pod Mounted on Steering Wheel Surround
52mm AutoMeter Phantom Boost Gauge
Innovate LCD Lambda Gauge
Greddy Turbo Timer
Custom Short Shifter (Stock Shifter Cut and Welded)
Battery Relocated in Rear Passenger Bin, 1Gauge Cable, New Terminals
Moroso Sealed Battery Box, Vented outside
Bosch Relay Added to Headlight Wiring Harness

AC:
New NippenDenso Compressor
New Drier
New GoodYear Rubber Compressor Hoses
New O-Rings in All Metal Lines

EXTERIOR:
Series 5 Wing
Wiperless Rear Hatch
POR15 Fuel Tank Sealer Kit

EMISSIONS: (not installed)
I have a Separate Exhaust system to Run During Testing. It is a Catalytic Converter with a length of Pipe that bolts up to the Dowpipe.
I also have the Charcoal Canister, Air Pump, all Hoses and Brackets

Jun 15, 2008

The Local Meet

The Local Meet

Mine. Yeah, I need to get some matching rims... A fellow www.AZMazdaClub.com member helped me represent the Mazda's.


These are a few pics from the local meet at 91st Ave and Northern. Every Friday there are a ton of folks out there. This week was mainly for the Hot Rads, but a couple rotor-heads and imports showed up.

These guys are from a local club called Nemesis. We'll probably meet up with them regularly.


Evo

1966 and 2008 pony.
I should've taken more pics. There was a Studebaker, Grand National, Cobra and LOTS more. I was lazy! Next week, I'll get some more.