AC Wire Bypass

Well what the heck is the point of having a new AC compressor, new rubber lines and new o-rings if you can't turn your AC on!? I am getting tired of being so close to having AC in this car so I decided to make a strong push to get it going. The problem I am having is that the AC control in the dash board, runs through the stock ECU. I no longer have the stock computer, and have gone to a MoTeC M2R. So with out that connection, the AC compressor will not turn on using the AC button on the dash. Thanks to Rob XX 7 on the Rx7club.com, I know which wires need to be jumped to allow the AC button to make a complete circuit.

This was done on a 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II:
Pull back the carpet in front of the passenger seat. This harness is the one needed to work with. If you click on the picture, you can see a larger view. It splits off the large harness running across the back of the wall and has a yellow clip.


Locate the BLUE and ORANGE wire. It is the third wire from the end of the clip. See Below. This is one of the wires you need to jump, so go ahead and slip your jumper wire in the front of that slot.

Turn the clip over and locate the BLUE and WHITE wire. This is also the third wire from the end. The two wires are right on top of one another. Slip the other end of the jumper wire in this slot as well.

Here is my el-Cheap0 AC jumper solution.
Not show in this picture,but I soldered the two connections and used electrical tape to protect the wire.
Now when I push the AC button, the orange light above the button lights up. Now all I need is Freon!! :(

Wastegate and AI

I just wanted to post the pic of what was happening with the Wastegate. One night, while boosting, It seemed like the wastegate wasn't opening. We took it apart to see a little corrosion inside. Not much, as you can see. But apparently some of the methanol has left traces here. I wonder if that little bit could cause the wastegate to stick....? It seems unlikely, but after cleaning it off, the problem stopped....???

Old vs New

That little nub there is supposed to be the pivot ball!! HAHA!

I busted the clip on the clutch fork and the clips in the pilot bearing.
This explains some of the issues I was having shifting. After I replaced all the clutch hydraulics, the car shifted really smooth for about a week. Then the symptoms came back. It was getting a little old. So we dropped the tranny and found all these pieces, in pieces.
Here are the symptoms I was having:
•different resistance on the clutch pedal every time I got in the car
•trouble getting in gear
•trouble getting out of gear
•car would move forward while trying to get in gear (with clutch down)
•reverse? not a chance
After installing the new parts, we adjusted the clutch pedal as well. Now the car shifts smoother than it EVER has... And it should. Everything but the actual transmission is brand new.